Arnhem Land
The whole of the eastern half of the Top End is the Arnhem Land Aboriginal Land, 97,000 square km of sparsely populated land (around 18,000 Aboriginals live here) combining great scenic natural beauty with huge cultural significance.
Named after the Dutch boat Arnhem that explored these shores in the seventeenth century, and therefore indirectly after the town of Arnhem in the Netherlands, Arnhem Land was declared an Aboriginal Reserve in 1931. It is still one of Australia’s largest, renowned throughout the world for its stunning examples of ancient rock art, its remoteness and the strong traditions and culture of the indigenous Yolngu people that are maintained to this day.
It would not be an exaggeration to say that this is truly one of the last unspoilt regions of the world. Bordered to the West by the Kakadu National Park, by the Gulf of Carpentaria to its east and the Arafura Sea to its north, Arnhem Land has some rugged coastlines and deserted islands, and inland it has rivers heaving with fish, verdant rainforests, woodlands and dramatic sandstone escarpments.
The sparse population here is mainly comprised of the Yolgnu Aboriginal people, whose culture is evident and intact today. A large number of different languages are spoken today in Arnhem Land, although many inhabitants may speak up to five different ones. Many of these languages are under threat of extinction, or are already only spoken by the older generations, though some still flourish today.
Arnhem Land is virtually closed to independent tourists (although travel to the north western and north eastern corners of Cobourg Peninsula and Gove, and Oenpelli is permitted), and only a small group of tour operators who over the years have gained the trust of the Aboriginal landowners are permitted to bring tourists into the area; even then, numbers are limited. It is possible however to self drive (4WD only) into Arnhem Land (as long as you have the required permit available from the Northern Land Council – there is an office in the shopping centre in Jabiru – permits are also required to travel to the Cobourg Peninsula as the track crosses Aboriginal land – and as there is a limit of 15 vehicles per week, you are advised to book your permit very early).
The main centres within Arnhem Land are Jabiru, on the border with the Kakadu National Park, Maningrida on the north coast at the mouth of the Liverpool River, and Nhulunbuy (or Gove) on the Gove Peninsula at the far north east tip of the region.
Peppers Seven Spirit Bay: Peppers Seven Spirit Bay is one of the landmark accommodations in the regions, and one of the most remote wilderness lodges you can find anywhere in the world, and the northernmost hotel on mainland Australia. It is located in almost virgin forest, just metres from the beach within the Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, on the Cobourg Peninsula, and despite its remote location, it boasts luxury accommodation and world-class cuisine. Rooms are not called rooms, but rather are “habitats” and even have semi-open bathrooms in their gardens! The emphasis is firmly on “getting away from it all” and no TV or radios compete with the sounds of the wilderness. The experience is far from basic, and the food is delicious, with the emphasis on local seafoods, meats, vegetables and tropical fruits. Transfers to the hotel are by private plane, a 45 minute flight from Darwin.
Arnhem Land Barramundi Nature Lodge: Located near the Aboriginal community of Maningrida, the Arnhem Land Barramundi Nature Lodge is a luxurious and exclusive safari camp, boasting a great location on the edge of an escarpment, on the coast, overlooking river valleys
In eastern Arnhem Land, Gove is the main accommodation base with a handful of hotels and motels, and there are also a few options in Nhulunbuy.
Oenpelli: Although in itself not a wildly exciting Aboriginal community town, Oenpelli is worth a visit. Located on the eastern border of Kakadu National Park, the ten mile journey from Kakadu to Oenpelli crosses the East Alligator River floodplain, which is truly spectacular. Once in Oenpelli, the major attraction is the Injalak Arts and Crafts Association, which is both a place of work and a shop, where the local artists and craftspeople produce traditional arts and crafts including paintings on bark, didgeridoos, pandanus baskets and weavings and screen printed fabrics. Sales in the shop all benefit the local indigenous community – and visitors can be sure that not only are they helping the community, but they have also bought authentic merchandise.
North West Arnhem Land
Cobourg Peninsula: The Cobourg Peninsula, at the north-west tip of Arnhem Land, is a remote wilderness comprising the Cobourg Marine Park, owned by the local Aborigines, and Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, the latter of which encompasses practically the entire peninsula. The saltwater estuaries and creeks, the reefs and the open sea make it one of the world’s best locations for reef and tropical fishing, and a number of fishing expeditions are run from here – the mangrove-lined billabongs are teeming with barramundi, and if you prefer ocean fishing, then barracuda and marlin abound, amongst the 250 recorded species. Other marine life in the area including turtles, dugongs, dolphins and of course crocodiles! Aside from fishing, the park also offers some visually stunning landscapes, from sandy beaches to lush rainforest, from coral reef to swamps, and from mangroves to coastal grasslands. Swimming is not advisable in this area, as there are plenty of crocodiles and box jellyfish in the waters around the peninsula.
Access to the Cobourg Peninsula is via light aircraft from Darwin (approximately 50 minutes), though 4WD tours are also available, although it is only possible to access the area via road between May and October. You should plan on the journey from Darwin taking at least two days. It is also possible to sail from Darwin to the Cobourg Peninsula – it would take roughly two sailing days to cover the 150 nautical miles. For a taste of history, visit the early British settlement at Victoria, on Port Essington (which is four times the size of Sydney Harbour!), on the North side of the peninsula – Victoria Settlement was a sad failure for the early British colonists and only lasted for 11 years between 1838 and 1849 before it was abandoned, disease and isolation playing an important part in its sorry demise.
Mt Borradaile: Mt Borradaile, in the north west corner of Arnhem Land, bordering with Kakadu National Park and the Cobourg Peninsula, is a vast sub-tropical savannah land, a pristine wilderness which is home to a myriad of flora and fauna. Here too you can visit spectacular natural galleries of rock paintings, which tell the story of the Aboriginal people who have occupied the land for 50,000 years, and of the “Dreamtime”, the spiritual foundation of Aboriginal culture. Mount Borradaile is accessed by light aircraft from Darwin or Jabiru, or between May and October can be reached by 4WD vehicle. The flight to Mt Borradaile is certainly part of the experience, as you will fly over some breathtaking scenery, including the Arnhem Land escarpment, rivers and floodplains.
As this part of Arnhem Land is sacred to the Aboriginal people, it is only possible to explore the area with an organised tour group. Davidson’s Arnhem Land Safaris operate tours and bush stays in Mt Borradaile, operating as honorary custodians of this restricted region, an honour bestowed upon the owners of the company by the traditional landowners. A stay in this region can include bird watching, cruising on the billabong, fishing for barramundi, rock-hole swimming, crocodile spotting, rock art viewing, 4WD adventures, bush tucker tasting, bushwalking, wildlife spotting, or just making the most of being in this remote, unspoilt and fascinating region.
Eastern Arnhem Land
Eastern Arnhem Land may be one of the last great wilderness areas of the world, but in Nhulunbuy it has a good centre, with all the basic amenities. 470 miles from Katherine and 375 miles from Darwin, on the easternmost tip of the Gove Peninsula, where the Gulf of Carpentaria meets the Arafura Sea, the town was built in the 1970s to service the bauxite mine in the region. It now has a population of around 4000 people, and is the administrative centre for Arnhem Land, which makes it an ideal base from which to explore this eastern part of Arnhem Land. Fishing is the main attraction for many visitors, particularly blue water sports and reef fishing, as there are more than 30 different kinds of fish to be caught in the sparkling waters of the Arafura Sea.
Diving and snorkeling are also possible, and popular, in these waters as there are many coral reefs to explore and plenty of marine life.
Away from the water, there are plenty of other attractions - just outside Nhulunbuy lies the Aboriginal community of Yirrkala, home to the Buku Larrngay Mulka, one of three outstanding arts and cultural centres on the Gove Peninsula. The indigenous artists here are world-renowned for their bark paintings, and the centre is recognized as on of the best places in the world to see such artwork. This part of Arnhem Land is where the yidaki, what is more commonly known as the didgeridoo, comes from, and the Yolngu are expert musicians.
The area is also known for its pristine white beaches, lapped by crystal clear azure waters. 4WD excursions to some of the more remote beaches are available. Another way to explore is along one of the well marked coastal walking trails, which under two miles, are all easily undertaken. The trails were actually set out by the native Yolngu landowners, and there is plenty of interpretive material along the way to ensure that you can fully appreciate the cultural significances.
Named after the Dutch boat Arnhem that explored these shores in the seventeenth century, and therefore indirectly after the town of Arnhem in the Netherlands, Arnhem Land was declared an Aboriginal Reserve in 1931. It is still one of Australia’s largest, renowned throughout the world for its stunning examples of ancient rock art, its remoteness and the strong traditions and culture of the indigenous Yolngu people that are maintained to this day.
It would not be an exaggeration to say that this is truly one of the last unspoilt regions of the world. Bordered to the West by the Kakadu National Park, by the Gulf of Carpentaria to its east and the Arafura Sea to its north, Arnhem Land has some rugged coastlines and deserted islands, and inland it has rivers heaving with fish, verdant rainforests, woodlands and dramatic sandstone escarpments.
The sparse population here is mainly comprised of the Yolgnu Aboriginal people, whose culture is evident and intact today. A large number of different languages are spoken today in Arnhem Land, although many inhabitants may speak up to five different ones. Many of these languages are under threat of extinction, or are already only spoken by the older generations, though some still flourish today.
Arnhem Land is virtually closed to independent tourists (although travel to the north western and north eastern corners of Cobourg Peninsula and Gove, and Oenpelli is permitted), and only a small group of tour operators who over the years have gained the trust of the Aboriginal landowners are permitted to bring tourists into the area; even then, numbers are limited. It is possible however to self drive (4WD only) into Arnhem Land (as long as you have the required permit available from the Northern Land Council – there is an office in the shopping centre in Jabiru – permits are also required to travel to the Cobourg Peninsula as the track crosses Aboriginal land – and as there is a limit of 15 vehicles per week, you are advised to book your permit very early).
The main centres within Arnhem Land are Jabiru, on the border with the Kakadu National Park, Maningrida on the north coast at the mouth of the Liverpool River, and Nhulunbuy (or Gove) on the Gove Peninsula at the far north east tip of the region.
Accommodation in Arnhem Land
There is a shortage of accommodation in Arnhem Land, so whatever the style of accommodation you are looking for, you are advised to book early. Some of the most popular include:Peppers Seven Spirit Bay: Peppers Seven Spirit Bay is one of the landmark accommodations in the regions, and one of the most remote wilderness lodges you can find anywhere in the world, and the northernmost hotel on mainland Australia. It is located in almost virgin forest, just metres from the beach within the Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, on the Cobourg Peninsula, and despite its remote location, it boasts luxury accommodation and world-class cuisine. Rooms are not called rooms, but rather are “habitats” and even have semi-open bathrooms in their gardens! The emphasis is firmly on “getting away from it all” and no TV or radios compete with the sounds of the wilderness. The experience is far from basic, and the food is delicious, with the emphasis on local seafoods, meats, vegetables and tropical fruits. Transfers to the hotel are by private plane, a 45 minute flight from Darwin.
Arnhem Land Barramundi Nature Lodge: Located near the Aboriginal community of Maningrida, the Arnhem Land Barramundi Nature Lodge is a luxurious and exclusive safari camp, boasting a great location on the edge of an escarpment, on the coast, overlooking river valleys
In eastern Arnhem Land, Gove is the main accommodation base with a handful of hotels and motels, and there are also a few options in Nhulunbuy.
Things to do and see in Arnhem Land
Maningrida: On the north coast of Arnhem Land, Maningrida is a small town, and like so many other parts of Arnhem Land, is a great place for fishing, although it is also rich in Aboriginal art and culture.Oenpelli: Although in itself not a wildly exciting Aboriginal community town, Oenpelli is worth a visit. Located on the eastern border of Kakadu National Park, the ten mile journey from Kakadu to Oenpelli crosses the East Alligator River floodplain, which is truly spectacular. Once in Oenpelli, the major attraction is the Injalak Arts and Crafts Association, which is both a place of work and a shop, where the local artists and craftspeople produce traditional arts and crafts including paintings on bark, didgeridoos, pandanus baskets and weavings and screen printed fabrics. Sales in the shop all benefit the local indigenous community – and visitors can be sure that not only are they helping the community, but they have also bought authentic merchandise.
North West Arnhem Land
Cobourg Peninsula: The Cobourg Peninsula, at the north-west tip of Arnhem Land, is a remote wilderness comprising the Cobourg Marine Park, owned by the local Aborigines, and Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, the latter of which encompasses practically the entire peninsula. The saltwater estuaries and creeks, the reefs and the open sea make it one of the world’s best locations for reef and tropical fishing, and a number of fishing expeditions are run from here – the mangrove-lined billabongs are teeming with barramundi, and if you prefer ocean fishing, then barracuda and marlin abound, amongst the 250 recorded species. Other marine life in the area including turtles, dugongs, dolphins and of course crocodiles! Aside from fishing, the park also offers some visually stunning landscapes, from sandy beaches to lush rainforest, from coral reef to swamps, and from mangroves to coastal grasslands. Swimming is not advisable in this area, as there are plenty of crocodiles and box jellyfish in the waters around the peninsula.
Access to the Cobourg Peninsula is via light aircraft from Darwin (approximately 50 minutes), though 4WD tours are also available, although it is only possible to access the area via road between May and October. You should plan on the journey from Darwin taking at least two days. It is also possible to sail from Darwin to the Cobourg Peninsula – it would take roughly two sailing days to cover the 150 nautical miles. For a taste of history, visit the early British settlement at Victoria, on Port Essington (which is four times the size of Sydney Harbour!), on the North side of the peninsula – Victoria Settlement was a sad failure for the early British colonists and only lasted for 11 years between 1838 and 1849 before it was abandoned, disease and isolation playing an important part in its sorry demise.
Mt Borradaile: Mt Borradaile, in the north west corner of Arnhem Land, bordering with Kakadu National Park and the Cobourg Peninsula, is a vast sub-tropical savannah land, a pristine wilderness which is home to a myriad of flora and fauna. Here too you can visit spectacular natural galleries of rock paintings, which tell the story of the Aboriginal people who have occupied the land for 50,000 years, and of the “Dreamtime”, the spiritual foundation of Aboriginal culture. Mount Borradaile is accessed by light aircraft from Darwin or Jabiru, or between May and October can be reached by 4WD vehicle. The flight to Mt Borradaile is certainly part of the experience, as you will fly over some breathtaking scenery, including the Arnhem Land escarpment, rivers and floodplains.
As this part of Arnhem Land is sacred to the Aboriginal people, it is only possible to explore the area with an organised tour group. Davidson’s Arnhem Land Safaris operate tours and bush stays in Mt Borradaile, operating as honorary custodians of this restricted region, an honour bestowed upon the owners of the company by the traditional landowners. A stay in this region can include bird watching, cruising on the billabong, fishing for barramundi, rock-hole swimming, crocodile spotting, rock art viewing, 4WD adventures, bush tucker tasting, bushwalking, wildlife spotting, or just making the most of being in this remote, unspoilt and fascinating region.
Eastern Arnhem Land
Eastern Arnhem Land may be one of the last great wilderness areas of the world, but in Nhulunbuy it has a good centre, with all the basic amenities. 470 miles from Katherine and 375 miles from Darwin, on the easternmost tip of the Gove Peninsula, where the Gulf of Carpentaria meets the Arafura Sea, the town was built in the 1970s to service the bauxite mine in the region. It now has a population of around 4000 people, and is the administrative centre for Arnhem Land, which makes it an ideal base from which to explore this eastern part of Arnhem Land. Fishing is the main attraction for many visitors, particularly blue water sports and reef fishing, as there are more than 30 different kinds of fish to be caught in the sparkling waters of the Arafura Sea.
Diving and snorkeling are also possible, and popular, in these waters as there are many coral reefs to explore and plenty of marine life.
Away from the water, there are plenty of other attractions - just outside Nhulunbuy lies the Aboriginal community of Yirrkala, home to the Buku Larrngay Mulka, one of three outstanding arts and cultural centres on the Gove Peninsula. The indigenous artists here are world-renowned for their bark paintings, and the centre is recognized as on of the best places in the world to see such artwork. This part of Arnhem Land is where the yidaki, what is more commonly known as the didgeridoo, comes from, and the Yolngu are expert musicians.
The area is also known for its pristine white beaches, lapped by crystal clear azure waters. 4WD excursions to some of the more remote beaches are available. Another way to explore is along one of the well marked coastal walking trails, which under two miles, are all easily undertaken. The trails were actually set out by the native Yolngu landowners, and there is plenty of interpretive material along the way to ensure that you can fully appreciate the cultural significances.
Getting to Arnhem Land
The main entry points into Arnhem Land are Jabiru to the west, Nhulunbuy to the east, Maningrida to the north and Katherine to the south. However, to get the most out of this culturally rich and visually stunning region, it is best to travel with a recognized group tour. It is possible to fly from Darwin to Gove, or to Seven Spirit Bay, on the Cobourg Peninsula. All visitors require a permit to entry Arnhem Land.Cities and regions within Australia
